COFFEE FARMING IN YEMEN TODAY

As we have written about previously, Yemen was single-handedly responsible for the launch of the coffee trade and is one of the historical coffee origins. Yemeni coffee is unique in its background and taste profile and is highly valued and prized worldwide. Unfortunately, it is currently in a disadvantaged position on today’s market due to the high costs of production, both monetary and effort-wise, paired with a very limited production volume.

In this post, we will cover the contemporary picture and struggles of coffee production in Yemen, and what can be done to change the course for the better.

Farmers in Yemen grow coffee at very high altitudes of up to 2500 m.a.s.l and practice traditional natural methods of production, handpicking the fruits, with cherries sun-dried and later put into a millstone to remove the dried husk. An important peculiarity of coffee farming in Yemen is the variety itself – while having a unique flavour profile, the coffee cherries are smaller than an average cherry of a coffee plant in other regions, the shapes and size of the beans are uneven and generally, the varieties yield a very low amount of fruit. Altogether this, unfortunately, limits the production volumes.

Another key determinant is the shortage of water. The farmers have to rely on natural irrigation, like quite erratic rainfall and some seasonal streams, as not only there is no infrastructure in place for additional irrigation, but there is a major limitation of water in the country overall. Additionally, more than 40% of Yemen’s agricultural land and water source is consumed for the cultivation of qat, a crop-producing leaves containing highly stimulant substances, popular with the locals.

Droughts are common, and without additional water, supplies harvests are at risk, and so is the long-term health of the plants, and therefore the overall farming business and the sustainability of the support the farmers can provide for themselves and their families.

The multiple wars in the recent history of the country, and especially the ongoing current civil war have brought on the biggest humanitarian crisis in the world, and majorly affected the economical situation of Yemen. Beyond the production obstacles, selling the harvest in these conditions is a challenge of its own. The coffee plantations are in the remote mountain villages, and for the coffee to reach the consumer it needs to travel via dangerous mountain roads and through numerous military and tribal security checkpoints. To be exported, it needs to get to an airport or seaport that is not only far, but also hard to reach due to the ongoing hostilities and road blockage, and eventually, any logistical plan might be majorly delayed or canceled altogether.

And yet, coffee production is one of the leading and, actually, the very few ways to make a relatively reliable income at the moment.

Understanding that, in recent years the farmers have been forming cooperatives to unite their forces of production and trade. They can share production resources and technical know-how while also building stronger names for themselves and the coffee they produce. For example, the Al-Ruwad cooperative from the Sana’a region, whose coffee we are proud to carry, is the most established and largest specialty coffee cooperative uniting 285 families. Together they produce some of Yemen’s most exquisite specialty coffee.

Efforts are made by producers like Qima to support the local farmers by establishing on-going partnerships with the farmers, setting high enough prices for their harvests for the farmers to be able to support their families, despite low production volumes, and investing into production infrastructure and facilitating the export logistics. That also allows for easier access to green coffee for roasteries around the world, which can introduce the origin to the international markets, raise awareness and drive the demand. The specialty coffee industry keeps growing, and the uniqueness and outstanding flavour of Yemeni coffee, along with the transparency of the supply chain can justify the need for a higher price point.

That would allow for the support needed for the farmers and communities back in Yemen to not only adequately provide for their families, but also invest in further development in their and Yemen’s future.